Spelunking For Photos

Today, we visited the Ajanta Caves, which are just like the Ellora Caves that we saw yesterday, but different. The main difference is that Ajanta is off the normal trade routes and is located in a narrow gorge high up on a canyon wall. So, after the original craftsmen had finished building the caves, or not finished the caves in some cases, the place disappeared in history for 1100 years until a British cavalry officer discovered them in 1817. His name was John Smith. We know this because he carved his name into the 2000 year old carvings with his bayonet. Anyway, the 1100 year time-out had distinct positive consequences. You see, since Ellora was on the main trade routes, those caves were continually being visited. Not just visited, but lived in. During the monsoon season, people would move in with their cattle to escape the flooding. They lit fires inside the caves, and the smoke from a thousand years of barbeques obliterated the paintings that covered the walls. Ajanta’s paintings survive, and that is why we went to visit them today. Our local guide, Sanji, was superb in describing, in great detail, the stories that are represented in the paintings. At least that is what I have been told by others. I wasn’t really paying attention. I was trying to take photographs of the paintings in almost total darkness. They do not allow flash photography or tripods into the caves here. I had to prop the camera against pillars and then hold real still for the 3 second exposures required. I did my best. Anyway, the Ajanta Caves are a huge tourist draw, especially with Buddhists from Korea and Japan, and the place is usually packed. Not today. We were told that nine tours had cancelled just today. The hawkers are not happy. Neither were the palanquin porters. The porters usually do a great business carrying the old, the infirm, and the Americans up the zillion steps to the caves from the entrance.

All of the women on our tour are in love with our local guide, Sanji. Many want to adopt him and take him home. The others want to help him find a nice girl to marry. In case any of our readers are looking for a nice Hindu boy to marry, Sanji holds two advanced degrees, including one in law with a specialization in intellectual property rights. He speaks four languages, and is learning Mandarin. He is working as a tour guide while he gets his law practice going. He’s 28 and he comes from a good family.