Rann Means Wasteland in Gujarati

[Written two days ago]

Maps of India, made prior to the 19^th century, show a large island sitting in the Arabian Sea off the northwest coast. This island, shaped like a turtle, was known as the Kachcch (Kutch). The island was separated from the mainland by a shallow marshy area. In 1819, a monster earthquake hit the area and the sea was filled in and the Kutch became permanently attached to India. This newly created land area is called the Rann. Nobody really cared. The land is salty and desert-like and not much will grow here except cumin and castor. They do grow a lot of both here. Cumin from Kutch is supposed to be the best in the world. Whatever. In any case, this is where we are for four days. We spent the first day at the Rann Riders Camp, where we stayed in huts. It was actually very nice. The accommodations were rough, but the experience was worth it. At night, I saw more stars than I have seen since I was a kid. We got up before dawn to search out the elusive wild asses of the Little Rann. Actually, our guides knew exactly where to find them but they thought we would enjoy riding around the bush in jeeps for a while. We did.

Back at the camp, we got to see two different wedding couples having their official portraits taken. One couple looked like they were in their early twenties, and they looked a bit unhappy. The other couple were 10 and 11 years old. They looked confused. Both couples were nice enough to let me take some photos. They all live in the nearby villages.

Then, we were off to Bhuj, the capitol of the Kutch region. In 2001, this town of 180,000 suffered a major earthquake (yes, another one) in which 90% of the buildings within the old city walls were destroyed or damaged, and approximately 17,000 people died. They don’t know the exact count, as they have not recovered all of the bodies. Some still lay within the piles of rubble that are everywhere. Recovery efforts have been very slow. In parts of the city, it looks like the earthquake happened yesterday.

On the bus today, we learned more about life in the Kutch. I have determined that this area is actually a natural disaster testing ground. In addition to devastating earthquakes, the area suffers from category 4 hurricanes on an annual basis, flooding on an unprecedented scale, and summer temperatures that reach 52C (126F) during the summer. Rumor has it that there are plans to install an active volcano in the area.

Anyway, the reason we are here is to visit some of the many small, and very primitive, villages in the more remote regions of the Kutch. We even needed to get special permits to go to these areas because they are within the security zone near the Pakistani border. The villages are known for their handicrafts – principally weaving and embroidery. I am quite sure that Carol and Puki will be showing you samples of their work when we get back.

Carol here. The embroidery is spectacular. The finest needlework I have ever seen. Today we visited a women’s co-op that was established to give the women direct access to the market for their work. Originally the husbands or men in their life would sell their embroidered clothes without much money reaching its way to them. Now they can bring their designs to the coop, get money for supplies and sell their work directly to the western market. In addition they get health care and education. Like Mike said there is devastation from the earthquake everywhere. Buildings in rubble piles and new construction in pockets around the heaps. The villagers that survived have made great efforts to get their city back together again. The government also has provided incentives for industry to establish in Gujarat-possibly to the detriment of the handicraft arts that have been here for centuries. It will be interesting to watch what happens to the small villages as car manufacturing (the TATA Nano car), etc. takes hold of the work force. Many of the craftsmen will lose the next generation of craft artists.

Tonight we wandered the bazaar and looked at the silver workers and goldsmiths working by kerosene lantern light. A small girl was crying as her mother held her for her first earring piercing. Little does she know that the gold put in her ears tonight would be the beginning of many pieces of fine gold jewelry she will wear up to and including her wedding night. The young newly married couples Mike mentioned from the Rann Riders Camp in Little Kutch were wearing large strands of gold medallions that the families proudly pointed out to us were real gold. (see photo) The bride wears her dowry in full view for the wedding. At one of the craft villages we learned that in the tribal communities the married women wear close to a lb of silver on each ankle in the form of ankle bracelets and another lb of silver on her necklace . At certain anniversaries the weight goes up, and this in effect becomes her retirement money-always worn day in, day out. I guess it would take a lot for a woman to run away with all that weight on her…

Off to a “cocktail” party in the Abo room for the group. Luckily two other travelers got permits today for vodka and gin. The permit process was very much like Mike’s experience-taking multiple employees and government workers and about 45 minutes to complete. Though we have all gotten in the habit of speaking in terms of “units” of alcohol (you can buy 10 beers per week on one permit, but ony 1 large bottle of vodka per week on one permit) we are diligently upholding the tradition of cocktail hour, sharing my Trader Joes “mixed nuts”, the mango juice someone else buys on the streets, and the Lay’s potatoe chips “American Style” that another will find at a truck stop. After a few drinks we thoroughly enjoy replaying the day’s adventures.